Beneath my critical (and some might say pessimistic) exterior beats the heart of an optimistic romantic, deeply in love with the idea of human potential and greatness. As Chomsky and so many others have said by analogy: just because I rail against my country does not mean I am not a patriot—indeed, quite the contrary! Many are unaware how deep my modest, almost ascetic lifestyle, goes. I sense my days are too simple and regimented, too devoted to describing and learning and practicing, for most people to handle. Their skin would crawl in the repeating groundhog days of a Dickinson or Spinoza.
I want to take this in a more lighthearted direction. For a long time, I did not wear any fragrances (aside from the smell of laundry detergent on my clothes and whatever underarm deodorant I happened to use). But in the process of helping—perhaps begrudgingly—my girlfriend choose her favorites from a perfume sampler she received for Christmas, my nose met Tom Ford's Ombre Leather. This scent slammed me. It made me confront something I knew theoretically—and knew definitely when it came to pussy—but never gave much conscious thought to: namely, that olfactory art is an art, just as much as visual, musical, and literary art.
I had ignored perfumery for so long, associating it with mass-man consumerist fluff. I gave no thought to the idea that, and this is true with everything else (from food to architecture to music), there were perfume creations beyond the designer yawns that I could not but associate with sheeple and Swifties at some Ulta BeyHive. How wrong I was. That first sniff of Ombre Leather—damn. Suddenly, I was Alice tumbling down the rabbit hole of olfaction—a chasing of the dragon you can read about here.
After purchasing various decants of the most artistic releases from various niche houses (especially in the leather and tobacco realm), I have come to hold several close to my heart. While Ombre Leather started my journey and remains high on my list, my current top choices are: Amouage's Royal Tobacco (a licorice and frankincense concoction that takes you through the whole experience of smelling a good cigar in a humidor to then smoking it all the way through); Amouage's Journey Man (a bright tobacco scent with a fiery spiciness of Sichuan berries and cardamom); Xerjoff's Naxos (a widely-appealing vanilla-honey tobacco); Ormonde Jayne's Montabaco (an addictive iso-e-super mountain air blast of fresh tobacco and leather base); Amouage's Jubilation 25 (an opulent masterpiece of sour blackberry Middle-Eastern resin). Second to these I would perhaps include: Gucci's Guilty Absolute, Tom Ford's Ombre Leather, Tom Ford's Tobacco Oud, Nishane's Fan Your Flames, Nishane's Suede et Safran, Rasasi's La Yuqawam Pour Homme, Rasasi's Tobacco Blaze, Sospiro's Erba Leather, and Akro's Smoke. (My nose is still developing, though. For example, I might at this point knock Naxos down to the second tier and place Tom Ford’s Tobacco Oud (along with its Severus-Snape / Julian-Sands-Warlock cousin Laudano Nero) to the first tier and perhaps, in a surprise move, place the peppery-patchouli-leathery spice bomb Kajal’s Sawlaj there as well.)
Just as with high-level art in other domains, niche scents are often an acquired taste. For example, I hated Tom Ford’s Tobacco Oud at first. Now I love it, and it makes me feel like a powerhouse. Several I still cannot get behind (even after trying hard)—yes, even well-regarded ones like Nishane's Ani and Nishane's Hacivat, or Mancera's Red Tobacco (which I cannot stand). A tremendously difficult thing is to educate the audience, to raise their level of appreciation for the olfactory art: challenging the nose like a sommelier challenges the palate. It is easy to lower their appreciation and sensitivity. Just as pop pablum does to their capacity to appreciate and even tolerate masterpieces of music, department-store dreck has diminished their capacity to appreciate and even tolerate masterpieces of niche perfumery. (Do not think I am being unempathetic. I was once a child who, only used to the inoffensive black olive from the can, felt the shock—"How could anyone actually like this?”—when I had my first taste of a pimento-stuffed green olive.”)
For those who have yet to open up to fragrances, I urge you to dabble. Please visit my perfume page for descriptions of various scents. You can purchase decants there as well.