Purpose
Ongoing record of my journey into olfactory arts
All descriptions are rooted in first-hand experience
Contact me if interested in decants
Ormonde Jayne
a signature scent for me (one of the best tobaccos I have smelled in my early journey) / a masterpiece of minimalism / not a mind-blowing tobacco scent (like for me, say, Royal Tobacco is) / appropriate for all year round even by the standards of a wide audience / like designer perfumes, this one is full of synthetics but it is done at a high level of craftsmanship /
the “mountain air” note, helped by the mega dose of iso-e-super, is very realistic (like wind and clouds in a bottle) and addictive / I think of the Swiss Alps behind me on a crisp cold sunny day, perhaps with some thick dark clouds on the horizon threatening to bring an aquatic element into the mix (ambergris influence) / like most Ormonde Jayne, this is not a screamer (although it lasts long, especially on clothing) / 3+ sprays is fine since this is not beast mode /
tea leaf and subtle tobacco leaf make this light compared to many other darker tobacco scents (like Tom Ford Tobacco Oud or Laudano Nero or Amouage’s Royal Tobacco) / one of the few tobacco scents that does not go the dark shisha or pipe tobacco route, which makes it easy to wear even in the summer / the tobacco is fresh here (rather than ashy like, say, Rasasi’s Tobacco Blaze) /
although it has tonka bean (which serves to warm the scent), it is not sweet like many other tobacco fragrances (which use honey and vanilla) / aromatic (slight citrus and bergamot) and spicy (especially cardamom) and green (tea, clary sage, juniper, oakmoss) and woody (sandalwood) and airy-dry (like Ormonde Man) / although this is a fairly linear scent, in the dry down the musky and mossy suede leather becomes more pronounced and the airiness fades into something denser and dirtier /
although very likeable for a niche scent of high-level artistry, you have to like iso-e-super a lot to really love this scent / the synthetics, it should be said, make this lean much more designer than many niche scents / I personally would like this to have a bit more tobacco bite and pungency, which didn’t result in it wearing so close to a skin scent so soon into its life (although it is easy to become anosmic to this scent and iso-e-super in particular, so I’m not sure I trust myself as to how low volume it is especially given that iso-e-super is great at allowing fragrances to carry in the air).
treble: Air note, Orange Absolute, Bergamot, Juniper, Clary Sage, Cardamom
mid: Magnolia, Hedione, Rose, Violet, Tea Notes
bass: Tobacco Leaf, Iso E Super, Suede, Sandalwood, Moss, Tonka, Ambergris
could be likened to an aromatic barbershop scent / a sweetened green-fern aftershave vibe (fougere style) / undoubtedly an amber scent, yet elegant and classy as opposed to heavy syrupy / patchouli and powdery musk come out gracefully, accompanied by creamy floral notes like rose and osmanthus and orchid / osmanthus is a star (an Ormonde Jayne trademark like frankincense is for Amouage) / clean and airy fresh-from-shower vibe (almost minty)
the green notes are pronounced at the start, which is not typical of amber scent / anise asserts itself even more powerfully in the opening, which could be off-putting (but it is short lived) / the cedarwood and chocolate patchouli and root-like (orris?) and synthetic musk take over in dry down through the life of the scent / ambroxin (the synthetic of ambergris) lends its presence too (some say too much so) /
easy to wear for a niche / down the middle in terms of unisex perfume (but might lean a tad masculine especially for people who associate amber with men and who get a strong barbershop feel from this scent, which I do more and more) / suitable for any time of year like a lot of Ormonde offerings / I only had a 2ml decant worth of time spent with this
treble: Green Notes, Orange Absolute and Bergamot
mid: Jasmine Absolute, Osmanthus, Rose Oil, Amber, Orris Butter and Orchid Oil
bass: Cedar Wood, Ambroxan, Tonka, Patchouli and Musk
captivating performance / unique even among niche offerings / bergamot and green notes, as well as a gingery orange effervescence, kick off the top / the citrus-green spice opening of cardamom and cinnamon, bolstered by saffron and pimento and black pepper, ring loudest for first ten to thirty minutes until florals bloom even louder /
the resounding floral presence on (magnolia and orchid, especially the rose) will potentially elicit the comment common from people unfamiliar with the olfactory arts (perhaps largely because older women with class were the only ones around pushing their olfactory comfort zone): “this smells like an old lady’s perfume” / the florals do mellow to a background chant hours in (the velvety rose lingering loudest, lending the scent a tender rosewater air) / addictive scent capturing oud (agarwood) in a light synthetic pleasant and rosy way /
the iso-e-super gives an airy quality that I truly relish in Ormonde Jayne (especially in my top from that house: Montabaco) / although not the most complicated or evolving scent, it does reveal facets over time (like the subtle dry-woody edge of synthetic oud) / not too challenging despite being a niche fragrance, partly die to the classic rose-oud combo /
complement grabber / commanding aroma, easily suitin any gender / too expensive, though / might not like if you are put off by cardamom / not an oud dominant scent, despite the name / some could find the girly diva rose hard to reconcile with the eastern spiciness that could come off as butch on a woman (especially in the opening)
treble: green notes, bergamot, orange absolute, cardamom, aldehyde
mid: rose, magnolia, orchid, pimento, bay, cinnamon, hedione
bass: ambergris, musk, vetiver, labdanum, oud
Ormonde Jayne
continued
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treble: Cardamom, coriander, grass oil
mid: Black hemlock, violet, jasmine absolute
bass: Vetiver, cedarwood, amber, sandalwood
<in progress>
treble: Orange Blossom, Juniper, Clary Sage
mid: Orchid, Rose, Lily-of-the-Valley
bass: Tolu Balsam, Amber, Tonka Bean, Olibanum
<in progress>
treble: Lime, Lime flower, Magnolia
mid: Frangipani, Water Lily, Plum, Tuberose, Rose
bass: Musk, Madagascar Vanilla, Amber, Cedar
Amouage
<in progress>
treble: Olibanum, Anise, Elemi resin, Cardamom, Basil, Bergamot
mid: Tobacco, Licorice, Fenugreek, Prunol, Lavender, Osmanthus, Orange Blossom, Rose
bass: Olibanum, Bourbon Vanilla, Myrrh, Birch Tar, Benzoin, Agarwood, Labdanum, Guaiac Wood, Peru Balsam, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Musk.
Journey Man
<in progress>
treble: Sichuan Pepper, Cardamom, Bergamot, Neroli
mid: Tobacco Leaf, Incense, Juniper Berry
bass: Leather, Cypriol Oil, Tonka Bean, Musk
<in progress>
treble: Cardamom, Blood Orange, Ginger, elemi
mid: Bourbon Vanilla,Benzoin
bass: Tobacco, Myrrh, Incense, Cacao, Guaiac Wood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Papyrus, Oakmoss
Amouage
continued
<in progress>
treble: Wormwood, Mint, Basil
mid: Incense, Lavender, Rose
bass: Tobacco, Leather, Sandalwood, Guaiac Wood, Vetiver, oak moss, Amber, Vanille, Musk
<in progress>
treble: Citron, Nutmeg, Black Pepper
mid: Turkish Rose, Orris, Violet
bass: Leather, Myrhh, Patchouli, Vetiver, Castoreum
Dia Man
<in progress>
treble: Incense, Cardamom, Labdanum, Bitter Orange
mid: Peony, Plum, Orris Root, Ylang-Ylang
bass: Vetiver, Brazilian Rosewood, Leather, Amber, Patchouli
Amouage
continued
<in progress>
treble: Cognac, Cumin, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Saffron, Ginger, Grapefruit
mid: Myrrh, Labdanum, Cinnamon, Benzoin, Mastic, Patchouli, Geranium
bass: Animal notes, Smoke, Incense, Sandalwood, Leather, Clary Sage
Epic Man
<in progress>
treble: Pink Pepper, Olibanum, Saffron, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Caraway, Mace, Myrtle
mid: Myrrh, Geranium
bass: Incense, Agarwood, Leather, Castoreum, Patchouli, Cedar, Sandalwood, Styrax, Musk
Amouage
continued
<in progress>
treble: Blackberry, Olibanum, Orange, Labdanum, Coriander, Tarragon
mid: Honey, Guaiac Wood, Cinnamon, Bay Leaf, Clove, Rose, Orchid, Celery Seeds
bass: Opoponax, Agarwood, Myrrh, Patchouli, Cedar, Ambergris, Musk, Immortelle, Oakmoss
<in progress>
treble: Violet Leaf, Rosemary, Bergamot
mid: Orris, Olibanum, Myrhh, Labdanum, Amber, Vanilla
bass: Leather, Agarwood, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Cedar
<in progress>
treble: Oregano, Pepper, Bergamot
mid: Incense, Opoponax, Amber, Labdanum
bass: Leather, Agarwood, Sandalwood, Patchouli
Nishane
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Wulong Cha
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Ambra Calabria
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Afrika Olifant
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Nishane
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Sultan Vetiver
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Hacivat
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Ani
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Nishane
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Sultan Vetiver
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Hacivat
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Ani
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Nishane
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Fan Your Flames
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Suede Et Safran
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miscellaneous
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miscellaneous
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miscellaneous
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akro
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akro
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akro
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my bottles
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My bottles
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My bottles
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wishlist
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want to test
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tips
1. Worried about your new bottle not really being new? Occasionally, atomizers might be primed during quality checks to ensure they work correctly before shipping. So just because the bottle sprays on the first pump does not mean it is not new.
2. When buying from trustworthy discounters like Olfactory Factory or Jomashop or FraganceNet or AuraFragrance or VenbaFragrance or Maxaroma or so on (here is a more complete list) the barcode strip could be edited or covered over with a new strip to hide the identity of the supplier. This is a standard practice in the industry to protect supply chain. So it is not a definitive sign that you got a fake bottle. You have to check other factors like packaging, bottle, batch code, and (of course) smell. YouTube can help with showing the difference between real and fake packaging.
3. Buy decants before full bottles so that you can be sure about your investment and also have something to test your bottle against. I use DecantX most often.
4. Sniff coffee beans to reset your nose if you are smelling a lot of perfumes in one sitting. Its effectiveness is somewhat of a pop myth, but I noticed that it mildly helps.
5. Start incorporating a nostril rinse routine into you life. By clearing away congestion, it will help you better access smells. But it is also a part of basic hygiene that helps will sinus and allergy and sleep and bad breath issues. Used distilled water (you do not want a brain eating amoeba) and plan salt (1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon) and baking soda (1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon) to create a saline solution.
6. You will never smell it all and there is always more to smell. While it is important to consult the insights of others on the path (like Ramsey), (a) appreciate your own narrow path through the glut of scents and, at least after you have seen some of the extremes of scents in different categories and sat with them with an open mind, start trusting your own nose (instead of what others say, especially the many shills on YouTube that—even if they are unaware themselves—are just running covert infomercials).
7. Have you ever experienced a performance difference between one bottle and another of the same product or, as I often experience, between your decant and your new bottle? People in these instances are quick, and understandably so since this is such an expensive hobby, to cry “counterfeit” and “reformulation.” Both are a thing. Picking reputable vendors can help with the former, as can understanding (a) how to spot fakes (see point 2) and (b) which products are more likely to be faked (Ombre Leather by Tom Ford is expensive and popular enough to be worth faking, whereas the same cannot be said for La Yuqawam by Rasasi. As for reformulations, new international standards regarding what chemicals can be used, plus the desire to cut corners with cheaper materials (and even to nudge consumers to newer releases), can definitely result in changes as years go by. It is important to keep perspective, though. Rarely will a good house just totally fuck consumers over. They are crafty enough to get to the same effect. Furthermore, do not underestimate maceration. I suspect that the basis for many worries about having bought a reformulation—and this especially applies to middle-eastern houses—have to do with the perfume simply being too fresh. Spray it a good ten times and then come back to it in a few months when it has ripened!
8. Going nose-blind is a thing. Especially if the scent is near you all day, it becomes part of the background noise. You do have to take breaks. That is part of the earthly tragedy, and it is why we dream of heavens of mollie highs never with a comedown. Love for the earth (a love Nietzsche devoted his life ultimately to rallying) is a matter of accepting this fact. Spraying away from head (just on the wrist pulse points) is a good way to keep your nose sensitive. I wear my scents for me. So anosmia really does bother me. It gives me no substantial consolation to know that others can smell me. So I feel your pain. Take breaks. And if you really want to go pro, do what the professional perfume connoisseurs do: engage in mindful smelling, focusing intently on identifying the various components and nuances of a fragrance. Just liek Arnold always said that the best way to work a muscle is to focus your mind on its contraction instead of just going through the motions, the same goes here: smell your essential oils (the kettlebells of olfactory training) and focus on what it smells like, reminding yourself what it smells like.
sale
$10 for 2ml decants of the following:
Tommy
Nautica
$12 for 2ml decants of the following:
Dolce and Gabbana The One EDP
Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio Parfum
Rasasi La Yuqawam Pour Homme
Rasasi Jasmine Wisp
Rasasi Tobacco Blaze
Rasasi Ambergris Showers
$15 for 2ml decants of the following:
Tom Ford Ombre Leather
Amouage Royal Tobacco